How To Change My T&P Relief Valve On My Water Heater (Complete Process)

Hi I’m Brandon Baril owner and operator of Quick Water Heater today I’m here to show you how to change out your temperature and pressure
release valve this valve is extremely important to your water heater it
controls the amount of pressure that can build up in the tank as well as how hot
the water can get inside if you’re tank over pressurize itself it can
actually explode and if it overheats you know you’re gonna burn yourself so this
valve is super important it does those two things we recommend that you check it at
least once a year the reason we’re out here today is because when I went to pull
the pin and release the valve and make sure it works this came out so this needs to be changed
there’s no way to know and it’s actually very very very dangerous so we wanna make sure
we always have an operating temperature and pressure release valve First step is to drain the tank to about this level
if you take this out before you drain the tank you will have water
firing out here so first step you want to power flush your valve that means that we’re gonna force all the water out and we’re gonna get anything that could be stuck and out of
the way so we can actually drain the water heater now if you don’t do this process
and you go through with trying to drain the water here you could be waiting an hour
and a half to get five gallons out of it so this part is extremely important
all you do is open the valve water will start rushing out once you start to let it run for a minute
you’re gonna come up to the top of the water here and shut this valve off up here
now that there’s no pressure coming into the tank the water will drain out the bottom
to start the flow of water you’re gonna have to let the vacuum go so if your
water if your valve actually works you’re gonna pop it like that and there’s a there’s
the water will come out if this isn’t functioning and it’s broken and leaking
whatever don’t mess with it just go up in your house is open hot water faucet and that will
start the flow of water so once you let is drain for about five or ten minutes you’re
probably going to be somewhere below this level once we get to that point we can cut
the pipe and actually get in there but before we do I guess I should probably
go over the different kind of tubing cutters so we have a close cutter, this will allow you to get in to close proximity areas this is a cutter that you will use to
cut a lot of pipe but it actually will complete the pipe because it won’t go round and then we have the ultimate cheat which is the
Milwaukee pipe cutter this thing is amazing so lets get started what I’m gonna do to keep the repairs as
easy as possible is I’m gonna cut right here with a Pipe cutter I don’t want to
cut over here because when I try to thread this out this pipe is gonna bang
into all sorts of stuff so i wanna make sure I could right here so slide it on now that you got
this loose straight pipe remember don’t cut it where there’s going to be any
bend because that will affect you later and now that we got that out, we can grab our pipe wrench which is here and you’re going to notice hows theres a circular disk on here that’s where you actually want to put to the teeth of this thing in you do not want to put the teeth here if you do you’re going to collapse this
valve and won’t be able to get your new peace in so this these sometimes can be
really stuck in there this one actually wasn’t that bad i wanna kinda get it hand
tight or hand loose and I’m not exactly sure where the water level is in the tank so before I go crazy and let
it go all the way I want to get it right to the very end and then test it so get all the
threads off and then slowly move it away make sure so we re all good no water came out so this is
actually the temperature this is the temperature bar so if the water heater
overheats it’ll melt this bar and the valve will open also has a has a spring inside here
which if the pressure gets too great in the tank it’ll push its way out and allow the
water heater to decrease the pressure so this thing will protects you from
overheating and over pressurizing the tank both are really bad you want to make sure this thing works
at all times this water heaters two years old it’s already got so much
corrosion is completely broken so this is something you want to change on a
regular basis so we’ve got our new valve want to use tape around here or some
thread sealant I’m going to use tape because its slightly cleaner in this situation before we go ahead and
put the new valve in I want to show you that there’s this different sizes of valves
it depends on the depth of insulation so this is for a basically like a six-year
version or an R8 so it doesn’t have to go very deep inside the water heater before it go in the
threads where is the one we just pulled out has a lot more neck on it so that it
can get through the installation before it hits the tank so make sure that you take your old
valve with you wherever you go to buy your new one and match it up because if you buy too short of a one by it actually won’t go into water heater so go
ahead and screw this back in we’ve already got our tape on there kinda wiggle the installation out of the way so you gotta remember
I said don’t put the threads in the threaded area here because you
don’t want to damage this area and then not be able to get this to go back in
I’m using outside portion here again whoever installed this before I think it
was actually from the factory with a little too tight so you don’t need to
kill yourself putting it in you want it tight but not so tight that you can’t
get it out so once we get the angles lined up usually what i like to do do before I get it all the way in line it up put a little tape on this this is actually called mega tape is a little bit thicker so
you don’t need to go around as many times but if you’re using the cheap stuff from
Home Depot probably go around six or seven time so it looks like when we put the new valve in that this was slightly a different size its not lining up just go right back into place to cut
this back about another quarter of an inch and we should fit snugly ok so before
you put this back together or make sure you use a little bit sandpaper
or standing cloth and you want to get all the debris up you want nice clean
shiny pipe or else you’re weld won’t go together perfectly any debris off I’m gonna grab a couple
which will just flip over here in the back together ok so I have a couple of here there’s is
there’s two different types of coupling this is a slip coupling is the couple
can go all the way down it so I can line up perfectly slide it over and weld it
also a stop couple which means that in the middle theres gonna be an indentation
so that you can only go exactly half way want both if you don’t know what you
doing I would just grab the slip one with no notch that way you can get it
either position you got to get a little bit of flux is an acid reflux will do is eat
away at the copper to exposed perfect clean copper it also do with oxidation cause the flux
causes sodder to actually get sucked into the joint getting a solid coat you can actually
see how its starting to change the copper color like a little bit there it’ll
brighten it up so one trick to soldering it’s not very complicated, but first time you do it, its a little weird you’re gonna look for two
things first thing is thou want to heat the top of copper first make sure that it’s changing
colors and then come back and hit bottom and ill show you why and goto the front and knock off your excess and you’re all good and that pretty much how you change your tp you always wanna make sure that this thing works if you can’t go like that it means you have problems you want to prevent flooding you don’t wanna burst a pipe because your pressures too highs make sure this thing works check it once a
year so the last thing I want to explain is that sometimes this can be a little
daunting to the point where you might be like I don’t want to do that I don’t recommend this
but if you’re in a pinch get these things called sharkbite fittings and you
don’t have to sauder anyything all they do is just stick together
and they hold if you don’t want to do the soldering thing that’s right I would
go I don’t actually have any only being used and personally don’t really like
them that they will work especially in the scenario where there’s not always water in
this pipe so that’s a little clue on how to get this done is a little bit
easier ok so now that you see just how
important your temperature and pressure release valve replacement is I want to
give you the bonus that i promised you at the beginning of the video and that is to show you how
to save 3 to $10,000 off your water heating bills if you click the link below possibly
to the side or even above i will take you that video and I’ll show you exactly
how to do it doesn’t take very much time really simple process that’s going to
save you thousands and thousands of dollars so click the link below or above
wherever it might be i thank you for watching and I hope to see you soon show me the part about how to use their
ok well we’re going to it

15 Replies to “How To Change My T&P Relief Valve On My Water Heater (Complete Process)

  1. Who was idiot that used the T&P pipe for ground? That pipe should be discharged either (1) where there is an air gap onto a proper drain area, or (2) outdoors (where approved, where there no risk of freezing, and where its 6-24 inches above ground). In other words, if the T&P pipe is installed properly, it can't possibly ground anything properly. All that does is extend the ground hazard and make sure there is plenty of conductive material to shock someone. Yikes!

  2. Here in NYC im a high pressure steam mechanic. I was told to test the tp valve once a month. Just pull the tab release some pressure and then make sure it seats again.

  3. While you were reconnecting the T&P drain you could have fixed the slope in the drain line. It looks like the part that goes to the wall slopes uphill a bit, which would not be code-compliant.

  4. our valve that is attached to the copper pipe that comes out of the top of the cylinder is hissing and leaking some hot water all the time is it normal is it a pressure relief valve and would the valve defiantly be the problem or could the element be over heating. thanks

  5. mine overheated valve keep leaking took my hammer very lightly taped on the valve while opening and closing the valve to free the valve up it worked

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